Archive for the ‘Friendly Plastic Moulds’ Category

Cookie Cutters and Friendly Plastic – Candy for your eyes! by Mylene Hillam

Thursday, March 18th, 2010
This is a from a recent post from Mylene Hillam, an Australian artist who works with mixed media:


It's time for some Friendly Plastic eye candy today.


You've seen some of the jewellery pieces I made using the demo samples from the Brisbane Paper Crafts Festival but many of you have asked how you can use Friendly Plastic in your papercrafting projects. Well, let me share some of the things that I like to do.


For the first one, I've used cookie cutters to cut some letters from a marbled strip of Friendly Plastic and layered them on a textured strip of gold. Adding texture is one of my favourite things to do with Friendly Plastic Designer Sticks. You can either stamp into it with a rubber stamp or press a texture into it as I did. This one is a silicone texture mat from Krafty Lady.I've layered the Friendly Plastic embellishments onto a piece of stamped acetate which I've coloured with Pinata alcohol inks... the vibrant colours certainly are eye popping!
Fun in the Sun
To add to the fun of the card I tied a polka dot ribbon around the embellishments before assembling.


You might recognise this next piece from my tutorial "How to Mould with Friendly Plastic Scraps" - different colours, same technique.I've combined some French images and text with these beautiful butterfly rub ons from Rouge de Garance.... très Parisienne!I'll have a couple more demo pieces to share with you in a later post so don't forget to check back again to see what else you can do with your Friendly Plastic embellishments.


Happy crafting,
Myléne

For more information on Krafty Lady moulds visit the website at:  www.kraftylady.com

Check out more of Mylene's work on her blog at:  www.milllanestudio.blogspot.com



Linda Peterson is compensated and endorsed by AMACO. The guests features may or may not have any affiliation with AMACO.

Mylene Hillam shares her technique on using Friendly Plastic and Moulds

Thursday, February 11th, 2010
Mylene writes:

As a card maker and paper crafter, I love to create embellishments to add to my projects. And being on the Krafty Lady Design Team I have access to some of the best moulds available for that very purpose. These moulds are wonderful: apart from the fabulous array of designs, and the fact that they are made from silicone so nothing sticks to them, they are also very flexible, making demoulding a breeze. I've used these moulds to cast every kneadable or pourable medium I could lay my hands on including soap, wax, polymer clay, air dry clay, resin, Opals and UTEE. They've stood the test admirably and are as good today as they were when I first used them, literally hundreds of casts ago.


So today I'd like to share my method of moulding with Friendly Plastic using a heat gun. So let's begin:


Gather all the materials you'll need: Friendly Plastic, Krafty Lady art mould (I've used AM247 Leaf Med), Tim Holtz Tonic scissors (because they cut Friendly Plastic so easily), a heat gun and a bowl of cool water.


Cut a strip of Friendly Plastic slightly larger all around than the mould cavity.
Place it in the mould cavity foil side down.Heat it with the heat gun until it turn glossy..........and begins to slump down into the mould.Dip your finger tips from both hands into water - it's amazing how often you accidentally touch the Friendly Plastic with your non-moulding hand and it sticks to you. Press the Friendly Plastic down in the mould making sure you push it into all the nooks and crannies. Place the mould and Friendly Plastic into the bowl of cool water and leave it to set (usually about 30 seconds).Once it's cooled, remove it from the water and you'll find the Friendly Plastic cast will just lift out of the mould. Here's the finished cast. If you were adding this to a papercraft project you could leave it as a rectangle so that you have something to attach it to your page or card with. Pritt Power Gel or strong double sided tape should do the trick. If you prefer to trim the excess away, then look for silicone adhesive to fill the back of the mould (my favourite is Helmar) but if you need something archival then choose Scrap Dots (also by Helmar).


For jewellery projects, try drilling a hole through the leaf stalk once the piece is cooled.


You can download and print this tutorial in pdf format from the tutorials page at Mill Lane Studio.


Happy casting!



THANKS MYLENE for sharing your tip with all of us!!!  Using Friendly Plastic in moulds is a great way to reproduce objects over and over again! 


Linda Peterson is compensated and endorsed by AMACO. The guests features may or may not have any affiliation with AMACO.

Friendly Plastic that Molds………

Tuesday, October 27th, 2009
Just today, I read an email from a subscriber asking about moulding Friendly Plastic. And I thought this post from Liz Welch would be the perfect answer for her and to share with all of you. I played with some molds yesterday, but to be honest, the moulds I have in my collection are quite boring in comparison to some of those Liz has...so I will spare you my flop's today...
Friendly Plastic pellets work especially well in moulds and because you can color them either before or after they have been moulded, you have quite a bit of options when working with them.
Read on as Liz shares her moulding experience:

I have been sneaking in to the pit of extraordinary messiness that is my studio, and instead of tidying up I have been playing. What a surprise, I am very good at displacement activity!


As you will see below, I have been making moulds using the two part silicone moulding compounds that go by various names – Siligum, Easy Cast, Amazing Mould Putty to name just a few. I even used the remains of the moulding compound that the Opro gum shield people sent when I was taking a mould of my son’s teeth for his sports gum shield! It is the same stuff, and although the colour varies from make to make, I can’t really tell much difference between them all.


IMG_0999


All of these items have been taken from casts of buttons, beads, charms and odd things I have found. There is very little difference between the speed at which the compounds cure – all the moulds for these cured within 5 minutes. I had been scouring my boxes and drawers for buttons and odd bits to take a mould from, and I went to the market and bought a whole load of single buttons to try out (nothing cost me more than 50p)


IMG_1000


This a close up of one of the pieces taken from a mould of a button. I used Pewter Friendly Plastic and then coloured it with Adirondack Alcohol Inks. This is about an inch (2.5cm) across so I was pleased with the level of detail the moulding compound picked up, after all, the original item was a cheap plastic button that cost about 30p in the market.


IMG_1001


The button that this came from is REVOLTING – a totally naff mock pearl middle with plastic “metal work” around the edge. I much prefer my version. This was made using Friendly Plastic Pellets which I pushed in to the mould (after melting them in hot water). The colouring all came afterwards with acrylic paint, Alcohol Inks and a metallic pen. I did learn that I need to be more careful to get the blob of pellets smooth before I push it in to the mould, but I still like the damaged and aged look the cracks give.


IMG_1002


These did not come from buttons, but objet d’art that I found around the place. The nice thing about the silicone putty is that it does not damage anything that you put it on, and it comes away cleanly (in fact it is a great dust remover for all the nooks and crannies that the duster does not reach!). Friendly Plastic Pellets were used again here, this time I coloured them before I moulded them, using metallic bronzing powders (real bits of metal, so masks are advisable). They got a thin coat of copper paint and some patination solution afterwards as well, but it was really late when I did this and I think I should have been more careful as I missed bits.


IMG_1003


This lot is a mixture of mouldings taken from items of jewellery, old beads, and some fabulous knitted wire that my good friend Erica makes using her knitting machine (she makes wonderful jewellery using very thin coloured wire, and as she is a perfectionist, it is always absolutely beautiful)


IMG_1004


Now this strange piece is only about 3 inches long and I moulded this around a lovely beaded necklace that my sister made me. The original item is really lovely, but I wanted to explore the fabulous texture of the rope of diverse beads, and this is what I came up with, which is not lovely, but merely interesting. Once again I used the Pellets and coloured them after moulding.


IMG_1008


I really like this moulded piece as I love oriental influences, and I coloured the pellets after moulding using acrylic paints, alcohol inks and Rub n Buff to make it look a bit like Chinese lacquer work.


IMG_1007


This is my very favourite piece, partly because I love the vase that it comes from (not mine unfortunately). This moulding measures about 3″ tall and again I used pellets, acrylic paint and alcohol inks plus Rub n Buff gradually building up the layers of colour.


As you can see, I have had fun avoiding tidying my studio and playing with mould making. From my experiments, I don’t think there is much to choose between the different 2 part silicone moulding compounds, they all take a minute or two to mix together in your hands (just like mixing plasticine when you were a kid, but softer). Once the two colours (usually white and another colour mixed together in equal parts so no measuring is necessary) are smoothly mixed with no streaks then all you do is push it around the item to be moulded and leave it for 5 minutes (more if the mould is deep or big). I did discover that you do need to take care to have a big enough blob of compound to successfully mould deep things – one of my more pointy buttons nearly went through the bottom leaving a hole. Another tip is to try to make sure the top is smoothly moulded around the item leaving a neat edge and not lop sided or you will find your mould less tidy to use leaving you with raggedy edges.


The moulds are flexible so you can manage a degree of undercutting, but take care not to enclose some element of your model completely or you wont get it out and your mould might be ruined. Balls can be enclosed completely, you simply have to cut the mould in half once it has cured. This could give you possibilities for making large hollow beads using a golf ball perhaps as the former. I did this many years ago and it worked a treat. If you are interested in getting your hands on some of this wonderful moulding compound then I might be able to source it for you, but I don’t want to keep it in stock if no one wants to buy it. Half a pound of 2 part silicone moulding putty will cost around £18 to £20 I think, but it does go a long way, I made all these moulds (almost 30 of them) out of slightly less than half a pound of putty, which makes each mould average out at about 65 p a mould. The compound keeps for a long time too, I have had some for a number of years and it worked absolutely fine. Don’t forget that the moulds can be used again and again but they can’t be resoftened and remade into new moulds unfortunately. So if you are interested then drop me an email at enquiries@rarebird.ltd.uk and I will get some in to stock for you.


If you do not want to go to all the bother of making your own moulds (I thought it was great fun and I am now looking at objects differently to see if I can take a mould from them), then go and check out the Krafty Lady Moulds. There is a fabulous range of these, and if you are in the UK then The Stamp Bug is the place to go and find them. But do visit the Krafty Lady web site to get some ideas.